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Squirreled away under the Adelphi, this basement-based stayer is the epitome of smooth. From the greeting at the door to the soft-furnished dining rooms, just-so lighting and muffled steps of waiters on carpet, it's cushy and cosseting and eminently comforting to sup under the ezard below-stairs roof. Guests are invited to indulge in Teage Ezard's acclaimed ‘Australian freestyle’ cuisine in a variety of ways: from a weekday express lunch or pre-theatre dinner, to an eight course tasting menu replete with fastidiously sourced wines to match.